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☆ Glasses Improve Income, Not Just Eyesight
▼ + stars: | 2024-04-04 | by ( Andrew Jacobs | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

But for nearly a billion people in the developing world, reading glasses are a luxury that many cannot afford. Uncorrected presbyopia, not surprisingly, makes it harder for breadwinners to support their families. That’s the conclusion of a new study which found that garment workers, artisans and tailors in Bangladesh who were provided with free reading glasses experienced a 33 percent increase in income compared to those who were not given glasses. Half of the participants — a mix of tea pickers, weavers and seamstresses between 35 and 65 — were randomly chosen to receive a free pair of reading glasses. The others were not given glasses.

Persons: Uncorrected presbyopia Organizations: World Health Organization Locations: Bangladesh

☆ Catherine, Princess of Wales, has become an increasingly important member of the British royals
▼ + stars: | 2024-03-23 | by ( Issy Ronald | Sophie Tanno | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +4 min

CNN —Catherine, Princess of Wales, has revealed she has cancer and is undergoing preventative chemotherapy after weeks of speculation over her health and absence from the public eye. She has become all the more important to the British royals since Harry and Meghan quit as senior royals, Prince Andrew became engulfed in scandal, and the death of Queen Elizabeth II. It was there that she met Prince William, then the 19-year-old son of Prince Charles, the heir to the throne, and Princess Diana. Around 1,900 guests attended the ceremony while the British public were granted an extra public holiday to mark the occasion. However, she apologized earlier this month after Kensington Palace released an edited photo the princess took to mark Mother’s Day.

Persons: Catherine, Princess of Wales, Kate –, Harry, Meghan, Prince Andrew, Queen Elizabeth II ., Kate, Prince William, Prince Charles, Princess Diana, William, Middleton, Chris Jackson, Alexander McQueen, seamstresses, Duchess, Cambridge, Prince George, Princess Charlotte, Prince Louis, Kate Middleton, Kensington Organizations: CNN, Marlborough College, St, Andrew’s University, Africa’s, Media, Westminster Abbey, Vogue, Rugby Football Union, The, Lawn Tennis, Croquet Club, Royal Foundation Centre Locations: Berkshire, London, Fife , Scotland, British, Mount Kenya, England, Buckingham, Westminster

ROME (AP) — For nearly six decades, the Tirelli atelier in Rome has woven itself into the fabric of Italian and international film history, earning the nickname the “Oscar tailor’s shop” for its contribution to cinematic costume design. Established in November 1964 by the late Umberto Tirelli, the shop has been behind 17 Academy Awards for best costume design. “Of course, the Oscar is not won by the tailor’s shop, the Oscar is won by the costume designer. But the tailor’s shop has the merit and the honor of having participated to make it win.”The atelier’s origins stem from Tirelli’s passion for collecting antique clothing. Photos You Should See View All 60 ImagesAfter the 1984 “Amadeus” design Oscar, Tirelli could have gone more international “because the market was immediately interested," Trapetti said.

Persons: Oscar tailor’s, Umberto Tirelli, Janty Yates, Dave Crossman, Ridley, Napoleon, ”, Dino Trappetti, Oscar, ” Trappetti, Tom Hulce, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Milos Forman’s “ Amadeus ”, Theodor Pistek, Michelle Pfeiffer's, Gabriella Pescucci, Amadeus, Tirelli, Trapetti, Trappetti, “ I’m Organizations: ROME, weekend's Locations: Rome, Prati, America, Formello

PARIS (AP) — Dior’s couture show at Paris' Musee Rodin wove an intricate Ottoman tapestry for spring and attracted a tapestry of stars to rival it Monday. A draped skirt embroidered with metallic Ottoman-style threads exemplified Dior’s own haute couture legacy. Above all, it served as a homage to the unsung heroes of haute couture: Dior’s legendary seamstresses. Ducrot’s installation underscored the theme of unique haute couture auras, garments that transcend fashion to reflect the wearer’s individuality. SCHIAPARELLI'S SURREAL FUSION OF HISTORY AND KINKSchiaparelli, piloted by the inventive Daniel Roseberry, inaugurated Haute Couture Week with a celebration of glamour, surrealism, and historical reverence.

Persons: Musee Rodin, Natalie Portman, Elizabeth Debicki, Ali Wong, Felicity Jones, Glenn Close, Kristin Scott Thomas, Juliette Binoche, Carla Bruni, Maria Grazia Chiuri's, Isabella Ducrot, masterfully, Daniel Roseberry, Elsa Schiaparelli, Elsa Schiaparelli’s, Roseberry, Dior, “, ” Organizations: PARIS, Musee, Couture Locations: Paris

☆ Setting Off Embroidery Fireworks
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-14 | by ( Vivian Morelli | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Some are graduates of École Lesage, the in-house embroidery school, although its training program, which can involve as much as 150 hours of instruction, is not a prerequisite for a job. “The most difficult part is to make,” Mr. Barrère said. “We’re talking about humans, not machines.”Mr. Barrère said it takes at least 100 hours to make an embroidery for a simple ready-to-wear garment. “In haute couture, it’s 600, 800, 1,000 or 2,000 hours of work, it depends,” he continued. Here is how it works:Conveying a ThemeFashion collections usually have themes, and Lesage artisans work with designers and their teams to turn those themes into embroidery.

Persons: “ Lesage, ” Bruno Pavlovsky, École Lesage, Mr, Barrère, “, ”, Lesage, Chanel, Virginie Viard Organizations: École, Paramount Studios Locations: Lesage, Los Angeles

☆ Prince Fashion Items, Including the Ruffled Shirt, Go Up for Auction
▼ + stars: | 2023-11-09 | by ( Steven Kurutz | More About Steven Kurutz | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

Twenty years ago, Bertrand Brillois, a Parisian businessman, began contacting seamstresses, costume designers, fabric dyers, production assistants and others who had worked for Prince. He told them that he thought Prince was not only a musical genius but also a fashion icon, and he wanted to buy clothing, jewelry and other accessories designed or worn by him. The many items acquired by Mr. Brillois over the years included an ankle-length white cashmere coat that Prince had custom-made by a tailor in Nice, France, when he was filming the 1986 movie “Under the Cherry Moon.” The coat, along with more than 200 other items, is on sale as part of the Fashion of Prince, an online auction that is accepting bids through Nov. 16. The sale, held by RR Auction, also features one of Prince’s signature wardrobe items: a white, high-necked, silk shirt with elaborate ruffles, puffy sleeves and faux pearl buttons. Prince wore it, according to the auction company, when he performed a blistering rendition of “Purple Rain” during the American Music Awards ceremony at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles on Jan. 28, 1985.

Persons: Bertrand Brillois, seamstresses, Prince, Brillois, Cherry Organizations: Mr Locations: Parisian, Nice, France, Los Angeles

THOUGH SALIMA BOUFELFEL and Roberto Cowan are known in the fashion world as the owners of the influential vintage clothing boutique Desert Vintage, they’re historians at heart. Tucson natives, they met as college students while working at an outpost of the used clothing chain Buffalo Exchange across the street from the University of Arizona. Boufelfel, 36, grew up in a family of artists and academics and developed an affinity for styling while costuming school plays; Cowan, 33, comes from a long line of seamstresses and taught himself to sew around age 13. Both knew early on that they wanted to work with historical fashion so, in 2012, after the owner of a Tucson vintage boutique that Boufelfel frequented put the business up for sale, they took it over, keeping the name and stocking it with pieces not only obscure (Jean Varon and Michael Vollbracht evening gowns; an ’80s jumpsuit from a label called Workers for Freedom) but also rare (Fortuny Delphos dresses, a Victorian-era matador jacket). Eleven years later, their collection of some 5,000 items — spanning Edwardian London to Y2K Tokyo — has drawn a global following of designers and stylists, who turn to Desert Vintage both to inform their work and to fill their personal wardrobes.

Persons: SALIMA BOUFELFEL, Roberto Cowan, Cowan, Jean Varon, Michael Vollbracht Organizations: Buffalo Exchange, University of Arizona, Workers Locations: Tucson, Boufelfel, London

☆ The Looming Crisis in the Bridal Industry? Not Enough Seamstresses.
▼ + stars: | 2023-07-27 | by ( Shannon Sims | ) www.nytimes.com time to read: +1 min

They were discussing issues like: How do you handle a demanding mother of the bride? Some women said they preferred to work in-house at a bridal shop, where they could have a steady stream of clients and backup for when things went wrong. Other women said they liked working as independent tailors because their schedules could be flexible and there was no profit-sharing. In 2019, she founded Stitched Collective, an organization that hosts in-person events for seamstresses nationwide. A central conundrum framed the call: How can bridal seamstresses in the United States navigate the overwhelming amount of business being sent their way in 2023?

Persons: —, Melissa Oddo, hemming Locations: Connecticut, United States

☆ Russian clothing brands plug gap left by Western rivals
▼ + stars: | 2023-05-31 | by ( Roman Churikov | ) www.reuters.com time to read: +3 min

[1/2] People line up to enter an H&M store, which was reopened to sell the remaining stock before the company exits the Russian market, in Moscow, Russia August 2, 2022. Spain's Inditex (ITX.MC) has sold some of its more than 500 Russian stores to a UAE-based buyer. Gloria Jeans, once a re-seller of Levi's jeans, has taken over Swedish retailer H&M's central Moscow store. Russians have developed solutions with small-scale imports and online sellers helping to keep foreign brands alive, but some things remain difficult to find. Shopper Irina Nikulina said she did not miss foreign brands too much, except when needing something simple, like a reasonably priced white t-shirt.

Persons: Maxim, Spain's, Anton, Antonina, Oleg Klimov, Gloria Jeans, Ksenia Zhdanova, Zhdanova, Irina Nikulina, Tatiana Vakhonina, Roman Churikov, Lev Sergeev, Alexander Reshetnikov, Alexander Paramoshin, Alexander Marrow, Mark Potter Organizations: REUTERS, Reuters, Russia's, Shopping, Thomson Locations: Moscow, Russia, Ukraine MOSCOW, Ukraine, UAE, Zara, Soviet Union, Kazakhstan

Designs by Karl Lagerfeld are displayed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute exhibition, "Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty," in New York on April 29, 2023. (Charles Sykes/Invision/AP)Celebrated tonight at the Met Gala will be the opening of the Costume Institute's exhibition "Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty," curated by the Institute's Andrew Bolton. Looks designed by Karl Lagerfeld on display during the press preview of the Costume Institute's exhibition, "Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty," on May 1, 2023. "The serpentine line signifies Lagerfeld's historicist, romantic, and decorative impulses, while the straight line indicates his modernist, classicist, and minimalist tendencies." The exhibition will be open for public viewing May 5 through July 16, 2023.

☆ Ela Bhatt, Organizer of India’s Women Workers, Dies at 89
▼ + stars: | 2022-11-20 | by ( Krishna Pokharel | ) www.wsj.com time to read: 1 min

Ela Bhatt was a lawyer for an Indian textile union in the early 1970s when she decided to help other types of workers, ones who were harder to organize and often barely noticed: women balancing heavy loads of fabric, often perched precariously atop their heads, to make deliveries to markets. She founded the Self-Employed Women’s Association, known as SEWA, in 1972 in her hometown of Ahmedabad in the Indian state of Gujarat. It became one of the country’s strongest advocates for India’s millions of women working informally in many kinds of low-paid positions, including maids, vegetable sellers, street food vendors, seamstresses and cigarette rollers. They often kept their families afloat by patching together work of all kinds—yet weren’t even recognized as workers in India’s official census data.

☆ Vera Bradley's founders Pat and Barb look back on the last 40 years as they embark into the metaverse
▼ + stars: | 2022-09-24 | by ( Chloe Melas | ) edition.cnn.com time to read: +4 min

It was 1982 in Fort Wayne, Indiana, and Patricia R. Miller was stopping by to introduce herself to new neighbor Barbara Bradley Baekgaard. “The Kappa [Kappa Gamma women’s sorority] house at Michigan State, they kind of brag that they started the company,” Baekgaard said. “We went through all kinds of names, but Barb’s mother’s name was Vera Bradley. Over the next several decades Vera Bradley expanded to bedding, tech and home accessories. Even as the women look back at 40 years of Vera Bradley, the brand is looking ahead and pushing the boundaries of its duffel-bag roots.

☆ The Odema sewing enterprise: the path from 12 seamstresses to international cooperation
▼ + stars: | 2020-11-11 | by ( ) novostipmr.com time to read: 1 min

О том, как создавалось производство и чем оно живёт сейчас, рассказываем в честь 75-летия предприятия

When the enslaved population was first freed, the Freedman's Bank was established to provide a savings and wealth-building tool. Black bank customers lost millions in deposits. When Freedman's Bank closedA short nine years after opening, the Freedman's Bank closed in 1874. The Freedman's Bank collapse destroyed Black people's trust in financial systemsMy grandmother had a bank account. In short, in the African American community, the Freedman's Bank collapse is to finance what the Tuskegee experiments are to healthcare.

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